What Exactly Does "Organic" Mean?
And How Is It Different From "Local"?
Plus, while we're on the subject, which one is better?
The momentum driving the local, organic movement is consumer demand for fresh, healthy foods grown in a way that’s as good for the body as it is for the environment.
Each year brings more studies showing the link between pesticides and major nervous system problems in humans, most recently attention-deficit hyperactivity disorder in children. Finally, scientists and consumers are paying attention to these reports.
Yet, there’s still a lot of confusion about organic food – what does it mean exactly? What kind of food is considered organic? Why are some local farmers not considered organic? What are the best practices when choosing and using organic producers?
On the surface, organic farming is a holistic approach to growing foods sustainably.
Conventional agriculture relies on synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides, many of which are unhealthy and all are made with fossil fuels.
Organic farmers work in harmony with nature to build healthy, fertile soil, and a naturally balanced eco-system.
But to legally use the word “organic,” growers must be approved by the government. All organic products marketed in the United States are regulated by the National Organic Standards developed by the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture (USDA). To obtain organic certification, growers must conform to strict standards and be certified by a private or state agency authorized by the USDA. In Georgia, organic growers must also register with the Georgia Dept. of Agriculture.
Yet there are plenty of farmers that farm organically, but just decided to not jump through the hoops set up by the government to reach organic certification. You’d need firsthand knowledge to know that these uncertified farmers are growing organically.
That’s why the adage “know your farmer” is such an important slogan these days.
Then there’s the popular term “local food.” After all, it goes without saying that supporting the local economy is a key fixture of the local food movement.
The economic benefits of shopping locally are huge. We know that when you spend $100 at a typical chain grocery store, about $125 makes it back into the local economy. When you spend $100 at a farmer’s market, $175 makes it into the local economy.
Plus, there are environmental advantages of buying local. On average, food travels 1,500 miles from farm to fork, and if Americans ate just one local meal a week, we’d reduce the country’s oil consumption by 1.1 million barrels of oil per week.
So what kind of food is better - “organic” or “local”? That’s an incredibly difficult question to answer. The good news is you don’t have to pick one over the other. This is one of those issues that’s not just black or white. There’s an entire spectrum of grays that should influence your food choices. And the only way to make that decision responsibly is through education.
Creating local links is crucial, but buying local food from conventional farmers doesn’t change toxic agricultural practices that poison our land, water, and bodies. The organic certification program practically eliminates the guess work for those concerned about harmful synthetic pesticides and fertilizers.
“Know Your Farmer.”
Sure, it’s a bumper sticker. But it’s also a sure fire way to guarantee freshness, high-quality, and the safety that diners are hungry for these days.
To help lead us through this quagmire, we asked several of the state’s top chefs and restaurant owners known for their sustainable practices for their opinions on the “organic v. local” subject.
Cathy Conway, Avalon Catering, http://avaloncatering.com/
Here is my philosophy. First and foremost for me is buying local, regardless of an organic certification. I know all of my farmers and have been to most of their farms. I know that they use biodiverse, sustainable practices when growing their food and raising livestock. I’m bothered by the requirements of organic certification for small farms. It tends to be a burden as I understand it’s costly and can be a paperwork nightmare for a farmer. When I can’t buy what I need locally (because of seasonality or unavailability on a large scale) then I buy organic from a source like Destiny Organics.
Ron Eyester, Rosebud, Atlanta. www.rosebudrestaurants.com 
I put an emphasis on the relationship that you establish with the grower. I’ve always believed that doing this enhances the level of integrity regarding your food and restaurant. Moreover, as your business (the restaurant) further evolves, these personalities (of the individual growers) certainly help shape the character of your restaurant. It is this “character” that gives your restaurant substance. Essentially, they become an integral part of your operation, almost as if they are one of your employees, or rather an ambassador of your concept. Ultimately if you (the chef) conduct your business in this manner, it is up to you (as the chef) to conduct yourself with an uncompromising sense of integrity and associate with those who do the same.
Hugh Acheson, 5 & 10 and The National, Athens. www.fiveandten.com and www.thenationalrestaurant.com
We buy as locally as we can. This is on itself sustainable. We encourage locally. This encourages organic practices. Local first, sustainable second and organic third but they are all intertwined with us.
I would much rather buy conventional local asparagus than organic asparagus from Peru.
Molly Gunn, The Porter, Atlanta. www.theporterbeerbar.com
Certified organic is way less important to us than local. Most local small farmers are sustainable and organic, but not certified as such. Organic onions from California are worse for the environment than local sustainable ones. We buy local whenever we can and fill the gaps with the larger distributors. Local and sustainable means you can't get local tomatoes all the time, but customers still expect a red tomato slice on their burger, so it's a balance between what we can provide and what are people's expectations. Our specials page is really the place for local and sustainable to shine, because we change it every day and therefore when our farmers are out of radishes we can change the dish to reflect that rather than using non-local radishes.